DIY Port injection set up

Maisonvi

Maisonvi

Grass-Roots Vendor
Platinum Member
Finally have my PI system up and running after a few hiccups. Talking with Will at PD tuning (@Captain KR) I mentioned how I somewhat built up my system myself doing it on a bit of a budget, and he said I should post up a list of what I used and how much it cost for people who aren’t going all out. I look at this kit as somewhere between the SP36 kit and a 5/6th port kit.

I bought a lot of my parts second hand or via deals I was able to find. I will list the prices from Edge as they are the easiest to get. My goal was to be below $2k including the manifold. I came in well under that, and even with full retail pricing the total comes out below that.

The parts list:
JMF PI manifold: $979.07 (Current Edge Autosport price)

DW65C: $149.00 (I used a DW300c, but the DW65c should be plenty)
EDIT: after lots of headache and trouble shooting I figured out that my DW pump was terrible and having issues. With that said, I dont recommend DW pumps for this application. I will look up alternatives and update at a later point.

Bosch 60lb/630cc Injectors: $146 (Bosch PN: 0280158298, I bought them off ebay, you can look elsewhere if you want. 48mm EV14 plugs. You can buy adaptors or wire them yourself)

Split Second Controller: $299 (Emailed Spit Second and asked for the Mazda specific 4 injector controller)

Fuel Fittings: $161.76 (I grabbed a bunch of Earl’s from summit for pricing. You can use whatever you want, mine was a hodge poge of Fragola and Earl’s fittings. This is not what you have to use, and I recommend specing out what you need yourself, this is just a reference list)

2x 5/16” to -6AN adaptor (EAR-165056ERL)
1x Plug w/ O-Ring (EAR-AT581406ERL)
1x 6an to Straight Cut 6an (EAR-AT985006ERL)
1x Tee Fitting (EAR-AT926106ERL)
3x 90 Degree Hose End (EAR-309106ERL)
1x 45 Degree Hose End (EAR-304606ERL)
6 FT Hose (EAR-350606ERL)

Total: 1734.83

That should be all you need to make yourself a budget PI system.

Other optional things I added to mine was the Speed Performance wiring hardness for the Split Second controller. I really hate wiring and thought I could have saved money, it was worth it to me for plug and play. Also I added a fuel gauge and adaptor right off the fuel rail so I could see pressure. Not needed but it’s nice.

Im still in the process of tuning, but with my turbo I think I will max it out with room to spare as far as fueling goes. This set up I believe could also be used with the new Damond Motorsports ST manifold kit I believe. They might have to chime in more on that. @Farhan@DM or @Matt@DM what do you think?

Let me know if it looks like I missed anything.

EDIT: I've added a diagram of how I ended up running with pictures in Post #78, along with pictures of what I did. I will attach it here as well.
Fuel Layout.jpg
 
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That's awesome! did you use the DW300c to replace the OEM pump or are you running both?
 
nekret said:
That's awesome! did you use the DW300c to replace the OEM pump or are you running both?
Click to expand...

The DW300c (and the DW65c) are both a drop in replacement for the stock pump. The one I ordered even came with a new OEM style sock filter and O-rings. So I didnt have to do any modifying of the basket. Just pulled the old pump out, put the new one in.
 
Maisonvi said:
The DW300c (and the DW65c) are both a drop in replacement for the stock pump. The one I ordered even came with a new OEM style sock filter and O-rings. So I didnt have to do any modifying of the basket. Just pulled the old pump out, put the new one in.
Click to expand...
Sweet! I vaguely remember someone running duel fuel pumps (stock & an aftermarket one for PI) but that sounds like a nightmare for wiring and plumbing. Nicely done sir!

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nekret said:
Sweet! I vaguely remember someone running duel fuel pumps (stock & an aftermarket one for PI) but that sounds like a nightmare for wiring and plumbing. Nicely done sir!

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Click to expand...
Yeah, that's for people going big. 2000cc injectors and what not

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You should crush your ITFP Regulator as well to get the most out of that pump/ secondaries.
 
GCPhotographers said:
No pictures?
Click to expand...

Not really a ton to show. I was going to do a write up on how to do the in tank pump, but when I was about 1/2 done with my write up, someone posted one that was miles better so I scrapped that.

I can throw on a pic of my wiring mess that I had going, and the final product. If anyone needs a picture of anything specific, let me know. I guess I just didnt take many.Wiring Mess.jpg 20160505_215350.jpg
 
Looks super clean Ken. Just some food for thought, I'd definitely recommend the 300 over the 65. The stock pump is ~230-240lph so the 65 isn't much of an upgrade.

fuel.gif
 
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Maisonvi said:
Finally have my PI system up and running after a few hiccups. Talking with Will at PD tuning (@Captain KR) I mentioned how I somewhat built up my system myself doing it on a bit of a budget, and he said I should post up a list of what I used and how much it cost for people who aren’t going all out. I look at this kit as somewhere between the SP36 kit and a 5/6th port kit.

I bought a lot of my parts second hand or via deals I was able to find. I will list the prices from Edge as they are the easiest to get. My goal was to be below $2k including the manifold. I came in well under that, and even with full retail pricing the total comes out below that.

The parts list:
JMF PI manifold: $979.07 (Current Edge Autosport price)

DW65C: $149.00 (I used a DW300c, but the DW65c should be plenty)

Bosch 60lb/630cc Injectors: $146 (Bosch PN: 0280158298, I bought them off ebay, you can look elsewhere if you want. 48mm EV14 plugs. You can buy adaptors or wire them yourself)

Split Second Controller: $299 (Emailed Spit Second and asked for the Mazda specific 4 injector controller)

Fuel Fittings: $161.76 (I grabbed a bunch of Earl’s from summit for pricing. You can use whatever you want, mine was a hodge poge of Fragola and Earl’s fittings. This is not what you have to use, and I recommend specing out what you need yourself, this is just a reference list)

2x 5/16” to -6AN adaptor (EAR-165056ERL)
1x Plug w/ O-Ring (EAR-AT581406ERL)
1x 6an to Straight Cut 6an (EAR-AT985006ERL)
1x Tee Fitting (EAR-AT926106ERL)
3x 90 Degree Hose End (EAR-309106ERL)
1x 45 Degree Hose End (EAR-304606ERL)
6 FT Hose (EAR-350606ERL)

Total: 1734.83

That should be all you need to make yourself a budget PI system.

Other optional things I added to mine was the Speed Performance wiring hardness for the Split Second controller. I really hate wiring and thought I could have saved money, it was worth it to me for plug and play. Also I added a fuel gauge and adaptor right off the fuel rail so I could see pressure. Not needed but it’s nice.

Im still in the process of tuning, but with my turbo I think I will max it out with room to spare as far as fueling goes. This set up I believe could also be used with the new Damond Motorsports ST manifold kit I believe. They might have to chime in more on that. @Farhan@DM or @Matt@DM what do you think?

Let me know if it looks like I missed anything.

Click to expand...

Sorry I missed this post. This setup does, and will work with the FoST manifold PI adapter. In fact, the test car is running almost an identical setup, including the in tank fuel pump.

AYOUSTIN said:
Looks super clean Ken. Just some food for thought, I'd definitely recommend the 300 over the 65. The stock pump is ~230-240lph so the 65 isn't much of an upgrade.

View attachment 3692
Click to expand...

You need to have the recommended injector fuel pressure delta (usually 40+psi) between the fuel rail and the air in the manifold. I assume Maisonvi will top out ~30-35 psi boost pressure, so you want about 80 psi at the rail to be safe. At 80psi fuel pressure, the stock pump is flowing 200 lbs/hr, or about 125LPH. DW claims 200+LPH on the 65, and 250+ LPH on the 300 at 80 PSI.
 
Wow reading comprehension fail on my part. For some reason I thought it was tested at LPH. I retract what I said.
 
Farhan@DM said:
Sorry I missed this post. This setup does, and will work with the FoST manifold PI adapter. In fact, the test car is running almost an identical setup, including the in tank fuel pump.

You need to have the recommended injector fuel pressure delta (usually 40+psi) between the fuel rail and the air in the manifold. I assume Maisonvi will top out ~30-35 psi boost pressure, so you want about 80 psi at the rail to be safe. At 80psi fuel pressure, the stock pump is flowing 200 lbs/hr, or about 125LPH. DW claims 200+LPH on the 65, and 250+ LPH on the 300 at 80 PSI.
Click to expand...

So Im running into the issue you brought up here. My fuel pressure delta is killing me. Im getting about 50 psi on the rail at WOT, dropping from about 60 at cruise/idle. (video of this can be seen in my build thread)

So at the 50psi rail pressure I should be around 320 LPH (300 LPH @ 60psi) the issue is my injector delta I think is hurting me as well. It would seem the pump cant keep up and thus the dropping pressure. My injectors are rated at 630cc at 43.5 psi and 740cc at 58psi. According to Enki and rough math puts the injectors at about 476cc at 25 psi (50psi - 25psi of boost). Using his calculations I come out topped out at 477 whp with a 50/50 mix. Which matches pretty well with my 465 VD result topped out on 50/50.

So maybe to this point, this system isnt the end all be all solution for 500 whp I was hoping for. Unless I can figure out a way to keep fuel pressure up Im going to need to look at doing something different. Im not sure there is a way to adjust the stock regulator other than "crushing" it (which Im not a huge fan of) and if it only gains me 3-4 psi thats not going to be enough. I will say that the stock regulator is supposed to be 60-71 psi, so I am on the low end of that, others may have better luck than me in this regard.

Granted Im still 100hp over what the stock system can do, and thats nothing to scoff at, but for $1500 I was hoping it was going to give me a bit more.
 
Maisonvi said:
So Im running into the issue you brought up here. My fuel pressure delta is killing me. Im getting about 50 psi on the rail at WOT, dropping from about 60 at cruise/idle. (video of this can be seen in my build thread)

So at the 50psi rail pressure I should be around 320 LPH (300 LPH @ 60psi) the issue is my injector delta I think is hurting me as well. It would seem the pump cant keep up and thus the dropping pressure. My injectors are rated at 630cc at 43.5 psi and 740cc at 58psi. According to Enki and rough math puts the injectors at about 476cc at 25 psi (50psi - 25psi of boost). Using his calculations I come out topped out at 477 whp with a 50/50 mix. Which matches pretty well with my 465 VD result topped out on 50/50.

So maybe to this point, this system isnt the end all be all solution for 500 whp I was hoping for. Unless I can figure out a way to keep fuel pressure up Im going to need to look at doing something different. Im not sure there is a way to adjust the stock regulator other than "crushing" it (which Im not a huge fan of) and if it only gains me 3-4 psi thats not going to be enough. I will say that the stock regulator is supposed to be 60-71 psi, so I am on the low end of that, others may have better luck than me in this regard.

Granted Im still 100hp over what the stock system can do, and thats nothing to scoff at, but for $1500 I was hoping it was going to give me a bit more.
Click to expand...

You already know it works well above that when working properly. You have a mechanical issue, likely with the pump, possibly with the regulator.

The regulator is just a spring. Crush spring, increase spring load. Shouldn't hurt anything. You'll need this, anyway, but it will NOT solve your problem if the pump has an issue.
 
What made you plug the end of the pi rail? I'm ordering my fuel fittings here shortly and was thinking about running my low pressure fuel line from fire wall to passenger side of pi rail then to the hpfp. Do you think this will cause issues? I think this could possibly fix your low rail pressure with the aux fuel due to always having flow. But do you see a problem with hpfp not having enough supply?
 
Bigelow said:
What made you plug the end of the pi rail? I'm ordering my fuel fittings here shortly and was thinking about running my low pressure fuel line from fire wall to passenger side of pi rail then to the hpfp. Do you think this will cause issues? I think this could possibly fix your low rail pressure with the aux fuel due to always having flow. But do you see a problem with hpfp not having enough supply?
Click to expand...

That is the method I have moved to now, but Ive added in a boost based regulator as well. I think my issue is the DW pump I have, which maybe if I swapped that out my system wouldn't have the issues its having (since Ive heard of numerous issues with DW pumps). But since Im going to a walbro 450, Ive changed up how Im running the lines as well. This is the new plan, using the stock feed as a return and running larger feed line to the rail and then HPFP.

15820427_10109528337956174_196394862_n.jpg
 
Maisonvi said:
That is the method I have moved to now, but Ive added in a boost based regulator as well. I think my issue is the DW pump I have, which maybe if I swapped that out my system wouldn't have the issues its having (since Ive heard of numerous issues with DW pumps). But since Im going to a walbro 450, Ive changed up how Im running the lines as well. This is the new plan, using the stock feed as a return and running larger feed line to the rail and then HPFP.

View attachment 5820
Click to expand...

I'm not sure your regulator can work properly that way. Usually they control pressure by opening to dump the excess through the regulator into the return; your drawing would mean the regulator opens to increase/maintain pressure.

What I'm suggesting is that you go pump>new feed line>hphp>rail>regulator>return. That's the "tried and true" sort of setup. It shouldn't be any more difficult for you since you're already talking about using the stock feed as a return, implying your new regulator is under the hood.
 
Yeah, there was a discussion on if this would work or not. Hopefully it's not an issue but if I have to, new lines can be fabbed

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