Lets talk Virtual Dyno

Probably a couple hundred miles and oil consumption seems to have went down considerably. My ar intake didn’t have a drop of oil in it when I just checked it either. If I continue without oil consumption I may end up changing my plugs... AGAIN! (I changed them when I got my flash tune done by Jason and they are really black all around the edges with a white center. They look like my car is running rich but I figured it was from oil getting around them.
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Sho said:
Any chance all you're wheel bearings are jacked up and creating a lot of drag?
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If it were wheel bearings it would make a roaring noise most likely right? Mine doesn’t have any issues like that unless this was the only indication of it.
 
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Jack it up on all 4s, put it in neutral, try to spin each wheel I guess..

Wheel bearings don't always make noise.
 
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mangosmoothie said:
Jack it up on all 4s, put it in neutral, try to spin each wheel I guess..

Wheel bearings don't always make noise.
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I’ll try it tomorrow and post how it goes. I might also check the brakes for rubbing as well if I get time.
 
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Plugs gapped properly? Any codes? Calipers sticking causing drag? Bearings like the others have mentioned? I don't have a clue as to why it is so low... quite strange. I'll do some more thinking and see what I can think of that may be causing your problem. Being a 6, maybe something is going wrong in the Tcase causing a lot of drag? I am not familiar with the 6 as much as I am with the GenPu 3s....
 
How long has it been since the t-case and rear diff fluids have been changed?
 
_Mazdarati said:
Plugs gapped properly? Any codes? Calipers sticking causing drag? Bearings like the others have mentioned? I don't have a clue as to why it is so low... quite strange. I'll do some more thinking and see what I can think of that may be causing your problem. Being a 6, maybe something is going wrong in the Tcase causing a lot of drag? I am not familiar with the 6 as much as I am with the GenPu 3s....
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Plugs were gapped right and are 1 step colder. The only engine code I have is from my egr delete I just did. I have yet to figure out what it is but my only thoughts are that I possibly didn’t run enough pressure during my leak down test to show accurate numbers? My compressor was set at 50psi and the guage as shown in the pictures showed 30psi during testing.
 
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StreetSpeed6 said:
Plugs were gapped right and are 1 step colder. The only engine code I have is from my egr delete I just did. I have yet to figure out what it is but my only thoughts are that I possibly didn’t run enough pressure during my leak down test to show accurate numbers? My comressor was set at 50psi and the guage as shown in the pictures showed 30psi during testing.
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I have never done a leakdown on a "real" engine. I did at my old job when they were on test stands, but we were using special equipment and such. I am sorry I cannot confirm if you did or did not do it correctly. I am at a loss for what could possibly be causing your issues.
 
Sho said:
How long has it been since the t-case and rear diff fluids have been changed?
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I have only put about 15,000 miles on it since I have owned it but it hasn’t been changed since I have had the car.
[doublepost=1531180441][/doublepost]Does it cost much to drain and replace the t-case fluids and rear diff fluids?
 
amnesiac said:
You should bookmark this, it's pretty handy:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f111/mazdaspeed-6-fluid-notes-diy-pictures-100877/

That should show you the gear oil and quantities needed so you can figure out the price.
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Awesome thanks man. I guess I may try to do a few more routine maintenance type things on it like that and checking/changing brake pads. I actually just bought some coilovers ill be getting in a couple days as well! My rear shocks are blown (surprise right? Ms6/3 with factory shocks blown) so it’s my excuse to get them while I have a bit of unexpected money:banana2:
 
Just put the car in neutral and push it. If the brakes/bearings are dragging it should be pretty obvious.

Did you install the used ko4 that you recieved?
 
I had suggested he wait on replacing the K04, as the oil consumption problem that initially pointed to turbo seals may have been resolved with a PCV replacement. Hand jamming the pressure curve from one of his logs in excel has his turbo spooling/maintaining just fine as compared to my K04 logs from back in the day.
 
It seems to depend somewhat on what the individual car prefers. I didn't go step colder until after upgrading the turbo.
 
SharksInSpace said:
It seems to depend somewhat on what the individual car prefers. I didn't go step colder until after upgrading the turbo.
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Oh alright ill probably just replace it with regular range plugs then because it’s under powered anyways so that won’t help matters running a colder plug for sure..
 
It shouldn't make much of a difference they will just foul easier .

Plugs should be changed when the color of the plug indicates it is running too hot. There is no mod point where they are absolutely required. If you had 700 HP and only used the car to drive to work in stop and go traffic stock range would be fine
 
Well mine have only about 2-3K on them and are basically fouled already from what think was my now resolved (pretty much) oil issue.
 
Got some DD Coilovers today guys!
 

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