street car gone road race

[macdiesel]

Should be fine, may take a little longer to get up to temp, at least if it’s cold out. I ran a plate off the top of the oil filter housing, bypassing the coolant system, into a thermostat plate. So I was able to tap my oil pressure/temp post oil cooler. Again, tmic gave me plenty of room to route everything.

 

[gotovato]

Should be fine, may take a little longer to get up to temp, at least if it’s cold out. I ran a plate off the top of the oil filter housing, bypassing the coolant system, into a thermostat plate. So I was able to tap my oil pressure/temp post oil cooler. Again, tmic gave me plenty of room to route everything.

Sweet thanks for the info. I’m hoping it’s ok. Car doesn’t really see any crazy cold weather. Longer warm up time is also not a huge deal

 

[gotovato]

did some more work today. got my first bit of ducting done, its not much but it took some time and should hopefully do something, even if its only a bit, every bit helps. idea here is that the ducting extends to the ends of the OEM grill, any air going through the grill will get caught and directed to the rad instead of just going nowhere useful.

started with some CAD, cardboard aided design.


finished product


made some ducting for the oil cooler also, hopefully force max air through it





also sleeved this WG line, had it fail due to heat last year and it was very annoying. the line had become hard, brittle, and when inspected it looked ok but it was cracked and i didnt figure that out until i pulled on it and it just fell apart. hoping this helps



waste gate water lines are still a work in progress, as you can see above i got one done, still need to fit the other side to the coolant source. planning to use the throttle body feed ports since i deleted those lines off the TB. looks like itll be a bit of a pain but should be ok.

DM PMM installed, pretty painless. not much to say on this lol. still need a TMM, might try the CS TMM insert?




still left to do is finish the velocity stacks for my brake duct hose to the fog light openings. got something kinda cool in the works for that. will be completed next weekend. also need to wire up the solenoid for my AFR failsafe next weekend. thats all for now

 

[SharksInSpace]

Can anyone translate this thread into American for me

 

[gotovato]

Can anyone translate this thread into American for me

LOL

 

[macdiesel]

Nice CAD work. Should help some. When will you find out fit does?

 

[_Mazdarati]

What size vac lines/fire sleeve did you use? I may steal that idea for my car, looks super clean and nice.

 

[gotovato]

Nice CAD work. Should help some. When will you find out fit does?

I don’t think I’ll really know until my first track day. I have some idea of my max temps from last season. Let’s see if they’re any lower this year! I can also compare some 4th gear logs which I’ll probably do in the spring

 

[gotovato]

What size vac lines/fire sleeve did you use? I may steal that idea for my car, looks super clean and nice.

vac line is 1/4” ID line I got off of amazon. It’s pretty decent quality actually.
The fire sleeve is 5/8 size

 

[gotovato]

Got some more done this weekend.

cars been sitting like this for like 5 weeks now lol. Damn.


Well here it is. Brake ducts complete and bumper installed. Take a look, velocity stacks installed, my buddy came up with these cool mounts/brackets. Pretty sturdy. It’s not going anywhere



on the car


Pretty stealthy. We’ll see how it holds up long term. My buddy 3D printed those funnels, they seem pretty strong. We’ll see how rocks treat them.

Not the most elegant mounting here, but this should do, 2.5” coupler to act as a barrier between the control arm and the brake duct hose


Next up, wastegate water lines. Done and done. Pain in the ass? Yes. But I figured I’d do it, that WG use to be a nice black. One season and I’ve cooked the anodizing. Another season or two and failing wastegate? Shits expensive, would rather not risk that.


-4an vibrant hose, 2 vibrant 90 fittings, that’s it. on the other ends I’ve got the hose on a little coupler we made up and joined to the factory water ports that usually go to the TB. Since I did that delete last year I knew I could steal the coolant from there. It’s tight in there but solid. Should be alright



That’s it’s for now. Next weekend, we plumb up the failsafe, and test it

 

[gotovato]

Little update,

car is back together now and on the road. most recently i setup/finished installing the AFR failsafe. this thing is pretty trick, and it works but it was a bit of a pain at first. mostly user error though LOL.

i didnt clue in until i had finished wiring it/plumbing it that it would only work with a push type bpv. it makes sense, the way i have it configured(suggested to me by my tuner, and most tuners i believe) that it will not work with a pull type bpv. its too bad most valves are pull type, and alot of people dont know the difference.

i had a forge bpv, this one here,


and it worked great for a long time, but it would not work with my failsafe setup.

for those who dont know the difference, a pull type bov/bpv relies on vacuum pulling at that top port to open the valve. a push type valve relies on the boost being fed to that top port to hold to valve closed under boost, so if you remove that line, the valve will open and dump your boost out.

the way the failsafe works is by opening that top line using a 3port ebcs so that boost is dumped out of the bpv.

I searched for a push type valve for sometime, it seems that PULL TYPE is the most common. the most cost effective push type valve i was able to find, with the help of @SharksInSpace was the turbosmart Kompact. nice little piece, simple, and it works. makes cool noises also. also a shout out to @JohnnyTightlips as he helped in trying to figure out this whole push type vs pull type situation.


MAP sensor and relay for failsafe setup.



how its plumbed

so the way this setup works, by default there is no power going to the EBCS, so i have my manifold line and bpv lines connected to the NO ports on the ebcs, as soon as the failsafe is triggered it sends 12V to the EBCS which then opens the line to to bpv, allowing the valve to open as boost is pressing on it.

ive tested this a few times and it works! it doesnt dump all boost, since your turbo is still making boost, but it lowers the overall boost entering your manifold significantly.


only issue im still having with this setup is the failsafe MAP sensor is reading 3-4psi lower then my AP. this is kinda annoying. ive done some checking and testing, and even removing the ebcs and just running that T from manifold to bpv the failsafe still reads 3-4psi low. at this point im thinking the map sensor might be bad. replacing it will be a pain in the ass but at least they sell it separately.


this is it for now, going to be installing my mishimoto sandwich plate this weekend, it has NO thermostat but it has the two ports i need for my oil temp/pressure sending units.

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

Can't you just wire the fail safe into your existing EBCS to dump boost via wastegate when it gets tripped, instead of the BPV system you made?

 

[gotovato]

Can't you just wire the fail safe into your existing EBCS to dump boost via wastegate when it gets tripped, instead of the BPV system you made?

This is how most would do it I think? But again I went off my tuners suggestion. Also, what if you lose boost reference to your waste gate?

 

[gotovato]

Update.

The o2 sensor for the failsafe failed on me yesterday. Car was stuck not making past 15psi(lean cut). I’ve bypassed the failsafe for now. That sucks.

 

[gotovato]

update!
first off, innovate is sending me a new o2 sensor and the o2 sensor heat sink piece they make... for free! apparently the bosch LSU 4.9 is very sensitive to heat and thats likely what killed it.
second, my map sensor is still off by 4psi even after doing the calibration steps suggested to me by innovate. seems ill have to buy a new map as they dont want to warranty this which is a little annoying. im ok with that though as its only $40, where as the other two pieces total $200.


next up, i finally got around to swapping out my thermostatic sandwich plate for my mishimoto plate. I got my oil temp/pressure sensors installed. temperature probe sticks in pretty far in the sandwich plate but there is still plenty of room around around it for oil flow.


The software. this gauge requires programming to setup how the temperature correlates to the colored LEDs on the gauge. pretty simple.

the values i entered when i originally installed the gauge, just as a general starting point.

love this gauge pod, its in perfect view.


After some testing over the past 2 days, i have some results and need to tweak these settings.
15c(60f) ambient, nice sunny days. i headed out to my favorite logging road/back road and began trying to get some temp into the oil and coolant. after a few back to back 3rd gear to redline and 4th gear to redline pulls, followed by some some twists and turns, stay on throttle as much as possible, i wasnt able to get my oil temp out of the green. This means it never exceeded 230f. coolant temp did not exceed 185f. this to me is impressive as coolant temps used get into the 190s+ after one 4th gear log. guess my ducting is doing something after all!

so one issue with this setup as is, oil temp may actually be too low. ideally you want oil temps around 210-230, that seems to be the sweet spot with todays modern synthetics. Max oil temps around 260 are even still ok as long as you are maintaining oil pressure.

with the way i setup my temp ranges, i havent seen yellow yet, meaning i havent exceeded 230f. i think i need to setup the gauge to display 120-210f as green, this being like "warm up" area, and yellow would take over from 211f, to 250f, and red taking over above 250f. this way i know yellow is my "sweet spot" and red is the cool down lap spot.

onto oil pressure, i use redline 5w40 for reference
oil pressure is directly correlated to oil temps. warmer oil? lower pressures.
cold start im seeing ~55-65psi depending on how cold.
warm idle(before i set off driving) im seeing around 35-40psi
warm, after multiple pulls or extended driving, oil pressure seems to settle around 22-30psi

now, being cooler out i dont know how this will all translate when its 25-30c(77-86f) outside and im doing my track days. its next to impossible to simulate trackday coolant/oil temps without being on an actual track, but i must say, based on previous coolant temps, they are lower with the ducting done.

as for oil temp/pressure. i will monitor it during my track days, seeing where temps peak. also as it gets warmer here, ill be able to test on the backroads more. although its not track day temps, its definitely up there.

 

[gotovato]

Bilsteins are installed. Power flex control arm bushings are installed into two new front control arms. Turns out my ball joints were both showing some wear. Car is currently sitting awaiting alignment. Have yet to drive on the new setup.

Sold my ST coilovers today. Got asking price for them so that’s cool. These definitely put in some work that’s for sure. Hopefully the new owner does them well. He was talking about setting up his car for some track use.




New rotors went in this weekend. This is what one summer of street driving/track use looks like. These have seen some shit lol




It’s been pretty cool The past week or two. Found I just couldn’t get my oil above 190f. Found a simple solution, even cruising on the highway I was able to hit 190-200f and maintain it.
Stuffed some microfibers in front of the oil cooler.


Hopefully I’ll have the car back next week and some nice weather so I can feel out the new suspension. Can’t wait.

 

[Easter Bunny]

I feel like 5w40 is too thin for you to use on the track. Heavier oil would also help keep the temp down

 

[gotovato]

I feel like 5w40 is too thin for you to use on the track. Heavier oil would also help keep the temp down

It’s interesting you mention this. I was of the thought that maybe a heavier weight would be necessary for my track use, and soon I’ll be able to tell based on temp and pressure data. Take a look at this from redline oil, I reached out to them recently asking some questions and this is one of the replies I got,

 

[aaronc7]

Yes, thinner oil would in theory lower temps a little (less resistance to flow) bit but I have a hard time believing it would be significant.

Biggest thing you need to worry about is maintaining sufficient oil pressure with high oil temps. With a good cooler setup and reasonable temps... a stout 'street oil' is probably just fine.... 260 ish like you said. When I was tracking I would start paying attention when it hit 260 and 280 is when I would start backing off or do a cool down lap etc.

HTHS is what is most important in terms of oil pressure....not necessarily the kinematic viscosity at 100C or whatever. So pay attention to that instead of a 30wt or 40wt... like the red line man says.

However a good 40 wt may still be worthwhile I think if you're gonna be in that 260 range. Another option is to simply run a thicker oil for track events and swap it out more often. Here in the USA mobil 1 15w50 can be had for around 25 bucks / 5 quart and has a HTHS of ~ 4.5 IIRC.

Being a little on the heavier side/high HTHS for track is never a bad thing.

 

[Easter Bunny]

I'm curious as to who wrote that for redline. It's the opposite of what other manufacturers say and contrary to real world experience of many people