AYOUSTIN
Greenie Member
As an addendum, it seems that the rubber o-ring gaskets on the ST manifold are cut and glue style...
Interesting. Where'd you find that out?
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As an addendum, it seems that the rubber o-ring gaskets on the ST manifold are cut and glue style...

The flash and parting line mismatch tell me this gasket was molded as one piece, not extruded or something. I'm not sure what the cross-gasket grooves are because potato. If I had to guess, the groove the gasket goes into has some pointy ribs in it to help retain the gasket in the groove before the parts are assembled, and being in it over time has caused those. Or maybe the gasket was across parting lines in the parts or something. Also if you inspect the gasket for the gate locations, you might find it's the knitline opposite the gate. That's the last area to fill, and if molding parameters aren't optimized for that shot it would be the first sign.When I made that statement earlier I had looked at the throttle body rubber gasket thing and found this: Kind of a shit picture but shows why I would think that.
Unfortunately, now that I've checked the head side, I can't find any markings that match this one, so either it's a defect or damage (this is a used manifold) or I'm half right.
Yeah, those lines convey injection molding to me too. I still think that with the correct profile of gasket material that a cut/glue and mount with RTV approach would hold boost just fine, so long as the correct materials/sealant are used.The flash and parting line mismatch tell me this gasket was molded as one piece, not extruded or something. I'm not sure what the cross-gasket grooves are because potato. If I had to guess, the groove the gasket goes into has some pointy ribs in it to help retain the gasket in the groove before the parts are assembled, and being in it over time has caused those. Or maybe the gasket was across parting lines in the parts or something. Also if you inspect the gasket for the gate locations, you might find it's the knitline opposite the gate. That's the last area to fill, and if molding parameters aren't optimized for that shot it would be the first sign.
I think it could perhaps be made to work, or a multiple O-ring approach be made to work, but just using the stock gasket is cheap and easy enough. But sometimes I just can't resist doing overly demanding asian father. LOLYeah, those lines convey injection molding to me too. I still think that with the correct profile of gasket material that a cut/glue and mount with RTV approach would hold boost just fine, so long as the correct materials/sealant are used.
Stock gaskets are perfect for IM to adapter plate. I'm thinking about the adapter plate to head connection. Is that what you're referring to?I think it could perhaps be made to work, or a multiple O-ring approach be made to work, but just using the stock gasket is cheap and easy enough. But sometimes I just can't resist doing overly demanding asian father. LOL
IM to adapter plate is with the stock FoST manifold gasket. When I say stock gasket I mean the stock 'speed mani-to-head gasket, which it sounds like is the plan for the adapter plate to head (Austin 3:46)Stock gaskets are perfect for IM to adapter plate. I'm thinking about the adapter plate to head connection. Is that what you're referring to?
Wouldn't bother flow testing it...it pops the front cover plate off and looses pressure... unless that's been fixed but as far as I know it's been written off as an optionI may have missed it in the thread, but the CP-e mani is available for sale on their website. It also can accommodate a 74mm Chrysler throttle body and has provisions for per cylinder PI. You going to flow test it now, @AYOUSTIN ?
Though it's conjecture, I'm pretty darn sure that Justin reporting what happened resulted in CP-e fixing it before the final release. Time will tell. Generally, CP-e parts are pretty solid quality.Wouldn't bother flow testing it...it pops the front cover plate off and looses pressure... unless that's been fixed but as far as I know it's been written off as an option
I don't care what they look like; I only care about flow/flow balance. And potential access to valves by removing only a plate would be a win.Pretty sure Justin actually blew the front cover clean off the thing, writing the manifold off completely.
Edit: The vstacks are also very ugly/unfinished... Def a negative in my boat even if they don't affect flow.
They do seem pretty effective at fixing them but they have had their problems. Like the retainer plate screws coming out of the RMM (fixed with loctite in their process), and the user-assembled TMM falling apart ("fixed" with loctite recommendation + retainer plate).Generally, CP-e parts are pretty solid quality.
...makes 3 parts on my car that I'm super happy with. Just to jump to the other side of the coin in the same post. Fair and Balanced (TM).cp-enis.
Sounds like a super-easy fix to me. Drill/tap/use larger fasteners with greater thread engagement. Should it be on the end-user to fix problems like this? No. But is having to think on your feet and come up with custom solutions common in the aftermarket/modding community? Absolutely. And if it flows well and evenly, I'll gladly do so. I will say this: it's too pricey to have issues like that, though. It's pricey regardless.Justin was the first batch of production manifolds, it blew because the screws are too small, the material is too thin and the area of thread engagement is too little to provide good clamping.
So basically it is shit.
Not this guy. The FoST piques my interest the most, currently. Interested to see how the CS turns out, though.Who would seriously purchase the cp-e manifold when cp-e refuses to release white papers on it and there are cheaper and proven solutions readily available from vendors that don't paint their parts silver and jack up the price 200 bucks?