Ah, I didn't remember your status quo. I'd hate to have that installed yet still be anticipating using it, LOL
Disi-MZResponse
- Thread starter Enki
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o.0 I thought the pics were takin from within the engine bay, LOL
Most honest post on the internet right there.
Enki
Motorhead
Not sure if ironic sarcasm or not. Lol.
Both because you made a truly honest statement but at the same time you should never believe what you read on the internet.
Enki
Motorhead
OK so update time; just got my shit back from Koerner Engineering; fantastic guys, great (if a bit of a wait) service.
Crank was balanced to perfection by itself (0g imbalance front and rear) and clay tested to verify (apparently that's where they take a measured weight of clay and add it to the crank somewhere to put it out of balance and check the machine's accuracy).
Pistons and rods weren't modified at all other than swapping the wrist pins around between pistons to get better balance. Jeff, the guy doing the work on my stuff, left it up to me to match rods to pistons after a brief explanation on what to do (along with some other instructions, which I'll detail later).
Here's a chart I made of the weight markings that are on the pistons/wrist pins/rods now, and how I paired them:
I'll likely put combo 1 and combo 2 on cylinders 2 and 3 with 3 and 4 on 1 and 4, which will have the net weight readout look like this:
-.2, -.3, -.1, -.2
This will average out to -.2 for cylinder groups 1+4, and 2+3, resulting in a theoretical perfect balance between cylinders.
I don't remember the numbers for the flywheel and PP combo, but I do recall something about it being close to 30 grams out of balance until he rotated the orientation of the pressure plate and got 8 grams imbalance and started from there.
Apparently those guys don't like Pauter rods because they do some stuff that's annoying/potentially dangerous to the health of the engine, like doing a full hone without chamfering the meeting edges between rod and cap. Jeff showed me a Carillo I-Beam rod that had this done and explained why it was important; since it's the surface area of the bearing and "squish" between rod and bearing that holds them in to place (the bearings are slightly longer than they should be for perfect fitment, resulting in the force of the rod cap against the bearing causing it to try to expand against the rod journal), you really don't want a sharp edge on either the cap or rod scraping metal off the bearing when you insert it. They say that they are also heavier than they need to be, so there's that.
I'll do some fine grinding against the edges as instructed and re-weigh the rods myself (though my scale is arguably less good than their precision one) and possibly change up the pairings if needed.
As a side note, it was expressed that I'm on the right track with how I'll be utilizing the electric water pump and how destroking and dropping longer rods in will lessen friction and rod angle, and thus improve efficiency and make slightly more power and slightly less heat and wear.
Food for thought.
Oh, and probably right around two weeks (yeah yeah) for the head to arrive, and build time to begin.
Crank was balanced to perfection by itself (0g imbalance front and rear) and clay tested to verify (apparently that's where they take a measured weight of clay and add it to the crank somewhere to put it out of balance and check the machine's accuracy).
Pistons and rods weren't modified at all other than swapping the wrist pins around between pistons to get better balance. Jeff, the guy doing the work on my stuff, left it up to me to match rods to pistons after a brief explanation on what to do (along with some other instructions, which I'll detail later).
Here's a chart I made of the weight markings that are on the pistons/wrist pins/rods now, and how I paired them:
I'll likely put combo 1 and combo 2 on cylinders 2 and 3 with 3 and 4 on 1 and 4, which will have the net weight readout look like this:
-.2, -.3, -.1, -.2
This will average out to -.2 for cylinder groups 1+4, and 2+3, resulting in a theoretical perfect balance between cylinders.
I don't remember the numbers for the flywheel and PP combo, but I do recall something about it being close to 30 grams out of balance until he rotated the orientation of the pressure plate and got 8 grams imbalance and started from there.
Apparently those guys don't like Pauter rods because they do some stuff that's annoying/potentially dangerous to the health of the engine, like doing a full hone without chamfering the meeting edges between rod and cap. Jeff showed me a Carillo I-Beam rod that had this done and explained why it was important; since it's the surface area of the bearing and "squish" between rod and bearing that holds them in to place (the bearings are slightly longer than they should be for perfect fitment, resulting in the force of the rod cap against the bearing causing it to try to expand against the rod journal), you really don't want a sharp edge on either the cap or rod scraping metal off the bearing when you insert it. They say that they are also heavier than they need to be, so there's that.
I'll do some fine grinding against the edges as instructed and re-weigh the rods myself (though my scale is arguably less good than their precision one) and possibly change up the pairings if needed.
As a side note, it was expressed that I'm on the right track with how I'll be utilizing the electric water pump and how destroking and dropping longer rods in will lessen friction and rod angle, and thus improve efficiency and make slightly more power and slightly less heat and wear.
Food for thought.
Oh, and probably right around two weeks (yeah yeah) for the head to arrive, and build time to begin.
Enki
Motorhead
Spring kit is en route to the shop, head came back from getting "cnc machined." That's in quotes because it's debatable as to whether or not that even happened. Head is currently hitting several machine shops to make sure it's still safe to use, as the quality of the work done is somewhat...lacking. Peep the pics, judge for yourself.
Here is what was requested:
Gasket matching intake and exhaust, with gaskets supplied.
Slight feathering of the intake runner splitter; nothing major.
Bowl work.
Not that much, IMO (lots of people want everything hogged out to fuck for maximum flow).
Here's what came back (not all of this is damning):
First up, some damage around one of the seats:
Not real sure the extent, that's part of what's getting looked at.
Next up: The gasket matching done to the exhaust runners:
...Or lack thereof.
Next up: Intake work. I think they went a little crazy with the feathering and went a bit taller than I would have liked, but they didn't hog out the runners themselves all the way down so not a whole lot of fucks given there:
Gasket match on that looks pretty meh as well, at least in that upper corner.
More pics and info is forthcoming.
As a side question, is CNC port work usually hand finished with a Dremel or hand finished at all? I'd like to think a computer guided tool could produce a badass surface without any hand finishing required, but I don't know much about these things. Oh, and keep in mind my head was at this place for somewhere near a month.
Here is what was requested:
Gasket matching intake and exhaust, with gaskets supplied.
Slight feathering of the intake runner splitter; nothing major.
Bowl work.
Not that much, IMO (lots of people want everything hogged out to fuck for maximum flow).
Here's what came back (not all of this is damning):
First up, some damage around one of the seats:
Not real sure the extent, that's part of what's getting looked at.
Next up: The gasket matching done to the exhaust runners:
...Or lack thereof.
Next up: Intake work. I think they went a little crazy with the feathering and went a bit taller than I would have liked, but they didn't hog out the runners themselves all the way down so not a whole lot of fucks given there:
Gasket match on that looks pretty meh as well, at least in that upper corner.
More pics and info is forthcoming.
As a side question, is CNC port work usually hand finished with a Dremel or hand finished at all? I'd like to think a computer guided tool could produce a badass surface without any hand finishing required, but I don't know much about these things. Oh, and keep in mind my head was at this place for somewhere near a month.
Maisonvi
Grass-Roots Vendor
While I cant say about CNC work for heads and such, but getting a high finish is possible with CNC, it just takes time. A lot of times its cheaper/faster to get it close, and finish by hand. Not saying thats what happened, here, just that the size of the steps (If they are using a 5 axis, that should help a lot more)
alexwlwsn
BANNED
I was told that my head was CNC ported and then finished by hand by Pablo at SP63.
Enki
Motorhead
Looks like multiple places say that the head is safe to use, which is a bit of a load off if I'm honest. Don't think I can afford yet another new head.
The work that still needs to be done will be done in house by the guys taking care of me right now (Speed Solutions), and the head will probably still be back on my doorstep within the expected date range, though I told them not to rush anything.
Edit: Minor update.
Machinist said that there was no flow increase from gasket matching and it might actually cost me flow, so he didn't do it. Call me crazy but if that was the case, Full Race wouldn't gasket match the exhaust manis...
At any rate, the good guys at Speed Solutions are taking care of it, and will be punching out the hotside and touching up the knife edging.
The work that still needs to be done will be done in house by the guys taking care of me right now (Speed Solutions), and the head will probably still be back on my doorstep within the expected date range, though I told them not to rush anything.
Edit: Minor update.
Machinist said that there was no flow increase from gasket matching and it might actually cost me flow, so he didn't do it. Call me crazy but if that was the case, Full Race wouldn't gasket match the exhaust manis...
At any rate, the good guys at Speed Solutions are taking care of it, and will be punching out the hotside and touching up the knife edging.
Last edited:
Enki
Motorhead
Finally took a couple hours to work over the OP and update things that desperately needed it.
See text with this color to find out what's changed:
http://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/disi-mzresponse.457/
See text with this color to find out what's changed:
http://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/disi-mzresponse.457/
I'm curious why you decided on the 6th port route? If you had to do it again, with what DM is offering, would you go FoST mani + their PI spacer instead?
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